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The cheap PCB fabrication process

   ( last updation: 02-April-07)

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Please Remember: 

1. I am talking about single sided PCB design, optimized for amateurs in India
Indian flag!

2. You need a PCB making tool with printing facility of 1:1(same ratio)

3. In case of FreePCB(around 5MB), you can create the Gerber file (Gerber is an universally accepted format for PCB layouts, just like PDF for documents), and open the Gerber file in Pentalogix Viewmate software (this is also free, around 6MB) 

See my review about FreePCB and more..

Artwork:

Draw the traces in any PCB software (I prefer FreePCB). Take the laser printout in a plain paper (ordinary A4) of the mirror image of the bottom layer. Mirroring the bottom layer is important for obvious reasons, because all PCB software show the bottom layer as if you look from the top; we have to mirror to combat this.

Check the connections, and once you know all the traces are correct, go to the following steps:

 

Let’s start:

The Toner Transfer

1. Buy the so called art paper. This is a glossy paper, sold for Rs. 1.5/A4 sheet, in my area. This is analogous to the paper used in magazines. The crux of this process is, we are going to make a big tattoo of our PCB layout!

2. Take the “Laser print out” of the layout (please remember to mirror).

Some printing tips:

·        Use the darkest setting possible in the printer, this makes sure that we have lot of toner in the paper, and the subsequent stages are easy.

·        Please make sure that the Art paper is dry. A general tendency of this paper is, it will go wet in humid conditions, so when you take laser printout, the paper will literally be fried, and you won’t get good results.

·        Don’t take just one printout, take some two spare copies, so even if the first paper goes off in the ironing process, we can use the rest (this will save time and annoyance!)

3. Take a clean copper clad sheet (a plain PCB, cut to the required dimensions of your circuit as per the layout)

4. Scrub the copper area using scotch-brite scrubber. This is for cleaning the dirt and the copper oxide formed due to exposure to atmosphere (for techies, scotch-brite is a commercial product of steel-wool)

5. Place the toner side of printout over the copper area (remember, you are mirroring the image at this step. So, while you are taking the printout, you would have mirrored once. Double mirroring will give you the exact bottom layer, as you need in the final PCB)


6. Get a heavy iron box, put it to medium heat, and just press the paper against the PCB in a floor.


7. Don’t iron the paper to and fro, since this will squeeze the toner particles, just give maximum pressure on all sides of the PCB.


8. Do it for 10 minutes (this is the most critical step, and you need patience and practice, so don’t expect this to work out on the first time). Correct pressure and heat are important variables, so you need practice and experience...


9. after 10 minutes of ironing, soak the PCB + paper in a tray of water for 15 minutes.


10. after 15 minutes, gently peel off the paper, you should get the paper out, just like the tattoo on skin


11. If step 10 is not working or the peel off is not working, gently rub the paper against the PCB with your fingers, you will get the paper disintegrating. Beware, the toner tracks must not get away.


12. Do a visual inspection of any paper left over shorting the tracks; Get them off by simply rubbing by an used, soft tooth-brush


13. Etch in hot 20% diluted HCl +80% FeCl2 solution (HCl is a good accelerator of etching process, and use hot water to dilute. The temperature of the whole solution should be around 50-70˚C)

35, 50, and 75 mil traces, as drawn in FreePCB
14. That’s all. (Now see there are 14 steps, and not 13! Many people consider 13 as unlucky number, even IEEE! In 802.xx standards, there is no such thing called 802.13).

Other important points: 
 
Minimum trace width must be:
Created using Freepcb

Ø      50 mils for signal traces

Ø      35 mils for inter IC traces

Ø      75 mils for ground and Vcc (use 75 and above)

(1 mil is 1000th of an inch and 39mils = 1mm).

In most PCB packages, you can go down to 8 mils, but in this method, it will not work out. Try to maintain a profile of at least 50 mil thickness, and go to 35-40 mils only if necessary.

You need patience and practice, so try it out before going to any big design. Mail me if you have any more doubts.

my mail id..

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